Background

Lyocell was developed by Courtaulds Fibers (now Acordis Cellulosic Fibers), an international supplier of rayon. It entered the consumer market in 1991. The properties and production processes were unique enough for the Federal Trade Commission to designate it as a separate fiber group. The trade name for lyocell produced by Acordis is Tencel®. Lenzing Fibers, another major manufacturer of rayon, has also entered the lyocell market. This product is marketed as Lenzing lyocell. An improved fiber, in terms of performance and properties, lyocell is also friendly to the environment. Virtually all of the chemicals used in the production process are reclaimed. The resulting fiber, lyocell, is both biodegradable and recyclable.

Properties and Characteristics

Lyocell is a manufactured fiber, but it is not synthetic. It is made from wood pulp harvested from tree farms for this purpose. Because it is made from a plant material, it is cellulosic and possesses many properties of other cellulose fibers, such as cotton, linen, ramie, and rayon - another manufactured but non-synthetic fiber. In many ways, lyocell is more similar to cotton than it is to rayon. Like other cellulosic fibers, it is breathable, absorbent, and generally comfortable to wear. In fact, lyocell is more absorbent than cotton and silk, but less so than wool, linen, and rayon. It can take high ironing temperatures, but like other cellulosics will scorch, not melt, if burned, and is susceptible to mildew and damage by silverfish. Cellulosic fibers are not resilient, which means they wrinkle. Lyocell has moderate resiliency. It does not wrinkle as badly as rayon, cotton, or linen, and some wrinkles will fall out if the garment is hung in a warm moist area, such as a bathroom after a hot shower. A light pressing will renew the appearance, if needed. Also, slight shrinkage is typical in lyocell garments. Stability, overall, is similar to that of silk and better than cotton or linen. Lyocell has strength and durability. It is the strongest cellulosic fiber when dry, even stronger than cotton or linen and is stronger than cotton when wet. Lyocell is much stronger than rayon when wet. This property of high wet strength usually determines the extent to which fabrics can be machine washed successfully (see Care below). Other desirable properties of lyocell are its luster and soft drape which makes it an aesthetically pleasing fiber. Since it is a manufactured fiber, the diameter and length of fibers can be varied. Lyocell can be made into microfibers (very fine fibers), offering depth and body to fabrics combined with luxurious drape. Short staple length fibers give a cotton-like look to fabrics. Long filament fibers are successful in silk-like end uses. Lyocell blends well with other fibers including wool, silk, rayon, cotton, linen, nylon, and polyester. It successfully takes many finishes, both functional and those designed to achieve different surface effects, and dyes easily. Overall, lyocell is a versatile fiber with many desirable properties.